Database Introduction

 

Contents

Introduction/Description

How to Use the Database

Feedback & Help

Abbreviations

Bibliographic References Frequently Cited

A Possible Classification Outline  for the Study Literature of Textile History

BEGIN YOUR SEARCH HERE

 

The Bibliographica Textilia Historiae database is a free, open-access, searchable database based on the research library and documentation of the Center For Social Research on Old Textiles [CSROT], a project of the Stichting Egress Foundation, Amsterdam.

 

It currently consists of over 9,000 records containing over 25,000 individual bibliographic references covering virtually all aspects of the world history of textiles and related materials, including printed books and pamphlets, serials, articles and offprints, dissertations, royal decrees and laws, published in all languages, but mostly European, since the late fifteenth century to date, treating all aspects of the history of handwoven textiles, including woven and printed textiles, embroidery, lace, tapestry, dyeing, carpets, weaving and fiber technology, pattern books, and costume, among many other subjects. It has been slowly but actively compiled by [CSROT] over the past 25 years, and it continues to acquire and document works at the rate of more than 500 records per year.

 

This database is currently a Beta version, a temporary experimental version, and is intended to correct and iron out all possible problems and errors in the coming months before the database is officially launched during the course of 2013. It is hoped that you, the user, can send us feedback and suggestions, especially negative and critical, so we can make the database a really Better version.

 

It is the largest and most important detailled scholarly online bibliography on the subject in the world, and it is offered to the general public, professional historians and specialized textile researchers and scholars without any charge or registration whatsoever for scholarly use only. For any other use, including reproduction in any form whatsoever for public use, permission must be explicitely requested (at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. ).  This bibliography is offered under a Creative Commons "Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 3.0 Unported" license (see Terms of Use).

 

For a detailled introduction to the general history and survey of the textile literature, the contents of the Bibliographica Textilia Historiae, its purpose, types of materials, and general catalogueing rules, to see the introduction click here.

 

TO BEGIN YOUR SEARCH click here

 

The Bibliographica Textilia Historiae

Database: How To Use It

Contents: The database consists of 2 series of inventory numbers, marked "[CSROT xxxx]", and "[CSROT txxxx]".  Basically the [CSROT xxxx] series of numbers corresponds to acquired books in our library (which, alas, are not yet available for consultation), and the [CSROT txxxx] series of numbers are for books which are not yet in our library, but have sighted and cited. Although these numbers are not important for your search terms, they could be very helpful later as these unique numbers will directly bring you back to a specific title.

 

Furthermore, within these inventory series there are a number of entries coded with the phrase "[… in course of catalogueing…]", at the end of the entry, which although still in process of being catalogued still contain more detailled information that can be found anywhere else.

 

The "*" before an entry indicates that it was not published in the printed edition of the Bibliographica Textilia Historiae (1997), while the "#" before an entry indicates that it was published in the printed edition but it has since been edited (augmented, revised, corrected, etc.) in some way.

 

Fields: Each record is divided into 7 fields as follows:

- Author

- Title

- Publication Information (place of publication; publisher, date)

- Edition information, if any (Series title; sub-titles, etc.)

- Collation (Pages, format, Binding, Illustrations)

- Annotation (This can often include a full list of contents or articles)

Search Techniques & Tips: To search efficiently note the following rules:

 

- To search multiple terms or names all search words must be connected by the word "and". For example, China and Cammann and embroidery will result in all records having all these terms together anywhere in the title or in its annotation-description.

- A search with several terms not connected by the word "and' will result in all records having any of these terms individually anywhere in the title or in its annotation-description.

- You can use any amount search terms on any subjects: proper names, regions, countries, materials, techniques, etc. However, keep in mind that the more search terms you use in a search will result in fewer search replies.

- For the moment, however, you cannot search for words having less than 4 characters, except for our CSROT numbers as indicated below.

 

- To search our CSROT numbers, such as [CSROT 4587], for example, use this form: CSROT and 4587. However, although for the moment you cannot search for terms under 4 characters directly on our database, you still can search for our inventory numbers from "[CSROT 1]" though "[CSROT 999]" by going to Google and searching for "[CSROT ...]" which will bring up the corresponding title on our database.

- While the search words are not case sensitive, accent marks must be used in the search terms if relevant.

 

Once the search results list is displayed just click on the first word of each record, usually the author name, which will then open the full record.

 

Languages. As the database has well over 9,000 records in many different languages, in your search terms you should be prepared to use alternate spellings and terms, and even translations of words: ei ce as well as French or Francia or Frankrijk; Turkey or Anatolia or Ottoman; Belgium, Belge, Belgie as well as Flanders and Flemish; Persia as well as Iran; velvet as well as velours or velluto; etc.

 

Abbreviations and Frequently Cited Bibliographic References: For an explanation of our abbreviations, terms and bibliographic references used in our catalogueing, see below.

 

For help or technical or bibliographic information or to report a problem or bibliographic error, please contact us as soon as possible at: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. We will try to get back to you also as soon as possible.

 

To receive updates about this project just click the feeeback button on the top of this page (click on "Textile History") and leave your name and email address (This information will be kept strictly private).  Or you can send us an email at: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

 

Additional Entries: We are continually interested in receiving additional textile bibliographic information so we can enlarge the scope of our bibliography and include missing old or new titles in this database, and perhaps acquire a copy for our library. Donations are also most welcome.

 

Other Textile & Related Databases: We are particularly interested in linking our numerous visitors to other open-access online textile-related databases. For a list, with links, to other open-access online textile and textile-related databases, click here.

 

To this end we are also interested in receiving information concerning other open-access online textile and textile-related databases so we can include a link to them from our website. For more information how to do this please contact us at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

 

ABBREVIATIONS

 

Adv = Advertisement(s)

AEDTA = Association pour l'Étude et la Documentation des Textiles d'Asie (Paris)

AIC = Art Institute of Chicago

Anthol = Anthology

Apr = April

Auct = Auction

Aug = August

B = Berlin

Bibl = Bibliography

Bks = Bookseller's (catalogue)

Bo = Boards

Br = Brussels

Bull = Bulletin

BW = Black & White

c = Century; Centuries

C = Color

ca = Circa

Cat = Catalogue

ch = Chapter(s)

CIAC = Centro Internazionale delle Arti et del Costume (Venice)

CIETA = Centre International d'Étude sur les Tissus Anciens (Lyon)

CISST = Centro Italiano per lo Studio della Storia del Tessuto

Cl = Cloth (binding)

CMA = Cleveland Museum of Art

CNAM = Conservatoire National des Arts et Métiers (Paris)

Col = Column(s)

Coll = Collection(s)

CSROT = Center for Social Research on Old Textiles (Amsterdam)

Dec = December

Desc = Described, Description

Disb = Disbound

Diss = Dissertation

Dj = Dust Jacket

Ed = Edition, Editor

Engr = Engraving(s)

Esp = Especially

Ext = Extensive

F&F = Facts & figures

Facs = Facsimile

Fasc = Fasiscule

Feb = February

F/M = Frankfurt am Main

GB = Great Britain

HSA = Hispanic Society of America (New York)

Ill = Illustration(s)

Imp = Impression

Incl = Includes, Including

Intr = Introduction

Jan = January

L = London

LACMA = Los Angeles County Museum of Art (Los Angeles)

Lea = Leather (binding)

MAD = Musée des Arts Décoratifs (Paris)

Mar = March

Misn = Misnumbered (pages)

MFAB = Museum of Fine Arts Boston

MMA = Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York)

MHT = Musée Historique des Tissus (Lyon)

Mimeo = Mimeographed

MRAH = Musée Royaux d'Art et d'Histoire (Brussels)

Mss = Manuscript(s)

N&BC = Needle and Bobbin Club (New York)

NEHA = Nederlandsch Economisch-Historisch Archief (Amsterdam)

No(s) = Number(s)

Nov = November

NY = New York City

Obl = Oblong (format)

Oct = October

Offp = Offprint

Orig = Original, Originally

p or Pp = Page(s)

P = Paris

Pt = Part(s)

Pl = Plate(s)

Ptg = Printing

Publ = Published, Publisher

r/v = recto/verso (of sheet of paper)

Rep = Reprinted

Rev = Revised

RMB = Rijksmuseum Bibliotheek (Amsterdam)

ROM = Royal Ontario Museum (Toronto)

Sept = September

SKM = South Kensington Museum (London), first begun as the Museum of Manufactures in 1852, then became the SKM in 1857, and in 1899 became the Victoria and Albert Museum (but was only opened to the public in 1909)

Sl= Slightly

Sup = Supplement(s)

t = Tome(s)

Teg = Top Edge Gilt

UB = Universiteitsbibliotheek, Universiteit van Amsterdam

Trans = Translation, translator

TSA = Textile Society of America

UCAD = Union Centrale des Arts Décoratifs (Paris)

Unb = Unbound

v, vol = volume(s)

V&AM = Victoria and Albert Museum (London); prior to 1899 known as the South Kensington Museum (but was only opened to the public in 1909)

VG = Very Good

Yr = Year

 

BIBLIOGRAPHIC REFERENCES FREQUENTLY CITED

The following is is a short-title list of publications which have been frequently cited throughout this work, usually at the end of an entry. For a complete description of most of these titles, search the database.

 

ADAB = EHRESMANN, Donald L. Applied and decorative arts. A bibliographic guide.  2nd edition.  Englewood, CO 1993.  [CSROT  t3809].

BOCH = BOCHER, Emmanuel. Le filet brodé. Technique, modèles divers. Procédés d'exécution. Bibliographie des ouvrages dit à dentelles.  Paris 1911.  [CSROT 4303].

BT = RON, Moshe, ed. Bibliotheca tinctoria. Annotated catalog of the Sidney M. Edelstein collection in the history of bleaching, dyeing, finishing and spot removing.  Jerusalem 1991 [1992?].  [CSROT 3566].

C&W = COLE, Arthur H.; George B. WATTS. The handicrafts of France as recorded in the Descriptions des arts et métiers 1761 - 1788.  Boston 1952.  [CSROT 2489].

COLAS = COLAS, René. Bibliographie générale du costume et de la mode.  2v.  Paris 1933.  [CSROT 3510].

CRES = CRESWELL, Keppel Archibald Cameron. A bibliography of the architecture, art and crafts of Islam to 1st Jan. 1960.  2nd ed.  Cairo 1978.  [CSROT 1116].

CRES I = CRESWELL, Keppel Archibald Cameron. A bibliography of the architecture, art and crafts of Islam. Supplement Jan. 1960 to Jan. 1972.  Cairo 1973.  [CSROT 1112].

DEBES = DEBES, Dietmar. Das Ornament. Wesen und Geschichte. Ein Schriftenverzeichenis.  Leipzig 1956.  [CSROT 4853].

E&A = ENAY, Marc-Edouard; Siawosch AZADI. Einhundert Jahre Orientteppich-Literatur 1877 - 1977. Bibliographie der Bücher und Kataloge.  Hannover 1977.  [CSROT 1304].

FABG = EHRESMANN, Donald L.; Julia M. EHRESMANN, eds. Fine arts. A bibliographic guide to basic reference works, histories, and handbooks.  Littleton, CO 1975.  [CSROT 3450].

GARB = CHAMBERLIN, Mary Walls, ed. Guide to art reference books.  Chicago 1959.  [CSROT 3043].

GLAH = ARNTZEN, Etta; Robert RAINWATER, eds. Guide to the literature of art history.  Chicago 1980.  [CSROT 4633].

HAMB = DÖRY, Ludwig, Baron; MUSEUM FÜR KUNST UND GEWERBE HAMBURG. Katalog der Ornamentstich-Sammlung.  Hamburg 1960.  [CSROT 4223].

HILER = HILER, Hilaire; Meyer HILER, eds. Bibliography of costume. A dictionary catalog of about eight thousand books and periodicals.  Facs rep ed.  Mansfield, Connecticut [1994?].  [CSROT 4326].

KOSK = STAATLICHE KUNSTBIBLIOTHEK BERLIN. Katalog der Ornamentstichsammlung der Staatlichen Kunstbibliothek Berlin.  2v.  Facs rep ed.  Mansfield, Connecticut [1995].  [CSROT 4900].

KRESS = KRESS LIBRARY OF BUSINESS AND ECONOMICS. The Kress Library of Business and Economics. Catalogue.  4v.  Cambridge, Massechusetts 1964-1993.  [CSROT 2536].

LIPP =  NIENHOLDT, Eva; Gretel WAGNER-NEUMANN, eds. Katalog der Lipperheideschen Kostümbibliothek.  2nd edition.  2v.  Berlin: Mann, 1965.  [CSROT 3413].

LIPP1 = LIPPERHEIDE'SCHE KOSTÜMBIBLIOTHEK. Katalog der Freiherrlich von Lipperheid'schen Kostümbibliothek.  2v.  Facs rep ed.  Storrs-Mansfield, Connecticut [1995].  [CSROT 4905].

LOTZ = LOTZ, Arthur. Bibliographie der Modelbücher. Beschreibendes verzeichnis der Stick- und Spitzenmusterbücher des 16. und 17. Jahrhunderts. Reprint edition.  Stuttgart; London 1963.  [CSROT 1157].

M&W = MARQUET DE VASSELOT, Jean Joseph; Roger-Armand WEIGERT, eds. Bibliographie de la tapisserie, des tapis et de la broderie en France.  Pars 1935.  [CSROT 703].

NEHA-H = GRAVESTEIJN, C.; J.J. SEEGERS; NEHA. Handel en theorie en praktijk.  Amsterdam 1981.  [CSROT 3458].

NEHA-M = GRAVESTEIJN, C.; NEHA. Katalogus von mode- en textielgeschiedenis.  Amsterdam 1978.  [CSROT 3457].

NUC = LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, ed. National Union Catalog. Pre-1956 imprints.  685v.  London: Mansell, 1968-1980.

NUCs = LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, ed. National Union Catalog. Pre-1956 imprints.  Supplement.  69v [= v686-v754].  London: Mansell, 1980-1981.

ORB = O'BANNON, George W., ed. Oriental rugs. A bibliography.  Metuchen, NJ 1994.  [CSROT 4599].

SEST = SESTAY, Catherine J., ed. Needlework. A selected bibliography with special reference to embroidery and needlepoint.  Metuchen, NJ 1982.  [CSROT 4632].

WHIT = WHITING, Gertrude. A lace guide for makers and collectors. With bibliography and five-language nomenclature.  New York 1920.  [CSROT 2837].

A POSSIBLE CLASSIFICATION OUTLINE FOR

THE STUDY OF THE

LITERATURE OF TEXTILE HISTORY

 

 

I. TEXTILE-RELATED GENERAL REFERENCE WORKS

 

II. TEXTILE-RELATED ECONOMIC HISTORIES OF WORK, INDUSTRY AND COMMERCE

A. Economic Bibliographies

B. Early Handbooks and Guides (16th - 18th Century)

C. The General History of Industry and Trade

- 1. Specific Subjects

-- a. Trade Fairs

-- b. The Hanse

-- c. Other ....

D. The History of Work, Professions and Craft Guilds

E. Royal and Governmental Edicts, Statutes, Laws

- 1. Published

- 2. Unpublished

F. Textile Company Histories

A. General Social Histories

B. Church and Royal Inventories

C. Sumptuary Laws

D. Account Books

 

IV. TEXTILE-RELATED TRAVEL AND VOYAGES

A. General Works and Bibliographies

B. First-Hand Accounts (Including Reprints)

 

V. TEXTILE-RELATED WORKS ON DECORATIVE AND APPLIED ART, AESTHETICS, ARCHAEOLOGY, CRAFTS, ORNAMENT, DESIGN, ETC.

A. Bibliographies, Dictionaries and Handbooks (All Periods)

B. General Histories and Theoretical Works (All Periods)

C. Pictorial Surveys, Histories and Catalogues

- 1. By Period or General Art Style

-- a. The Mediterranean Region

--- 1. Coptic, Early Christian and Byzantine Art

--- 2. Islamic Art

---- aa. The Medieval Period

---- ab. 16th – 2oth Century Period

---- ac. Other ....

-- b. The European Region

--- 1. Antique Period

--- 2. The Medieval Period

--- 3. The Baroque & Rococco Period

-- c. Other ....

VI. THE TEXTILE PRODUCTION PROCESS: RAW MATERIALS, TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES

A. General Works On Textile-Related Technology, Early Chemistry and Mechanics

B. Dyes and Dyeing

- 1. General Bibliographies, Histories and Surveys

-- a. The History of Color

- 2. Early Books of Dyeing Techniques and Recipes (16th - Early 19th Century; Including Reprints)

- 3. Specific Dyes and Mordants

-- a. Alum

-- b. Indigo

-- c. Woad

-- d. Madder

-- e. Other ....

- 6. Tanning [See Also: Leather]

- 7. Other ....

C. Fibers

- 1. General Works

-- a. Early General Histories (16th - 18th Century; Including Reprints)

- 2. Specific Natural Fibers

-- a. Silk and Sericulture

-- b. Cotton

-- c. Wool

-- d. Flax and Linen

-- e. Bast Fibers

--- 1. Hemp

--- 2. Jute

--- 3. Ramie, Sisal and Coir

- 3. Compound Fibers

--- a. Metal Thread (Especially Gold and Silver)

--- b. Mixed Fibers

- 4. Synthetic Fibers

D. The Weaving Process

- 1. Weaving Techniques and Loom Technology

- 2. Spinning and Carding Tools and Techniques

E. Embroidery, Lace and Sewing Tools

- 1. General Works

- 2. Specific Tools

-- a. Needles

-- b. Thimbles

-- c. Other ....

- 3. The Sewing Machine

 

F. Textile Terminology and Analysis

G. Textile Conservation, Restoration and Exhibition

VII. THE TEXTILE ART: THE FINISHED PRODUCT

A. General Works and Bibliographies

- 1. General Social and Theoretical Works

B. Woven Textiles By General Period

- 1. The Prehistoric and Ancient Period (Through ca 3rd Century A.D. ("Archaeological" Textiles)

- 2. All Periods and Types of Textiles (From the 3rd Century A.D. - 18th Century

-- a. General Bibliographies

-- b. Other ....

- 3. The Medieval Period (3rd - 15th Century)

- 4. The Renaissance, Baroque and Rococo Periods (16th - 18th Century)

- 5. Modern "Folk", "Primitive", "Third World" Textiles (19th - 20th Century)

C. Specific Regional-Historic Types of Woven Textiles

- 1. The Mediterranean Region

-- a. Coptic, Early Christian and Byzantine Textiles

-- b. Islamic Textiles

--- aa. Tiraz

- 2. Other Regions ....

D. Specific Forms and Types of Woven Textiles

  2. Shawls

- 3. Velvets

- 4. Other ....

--- aa. Bizarre Silks

--- bb. Half Silks

-- b. Wool

-- c. Cotton

-- d. Linen

-- e. Other ...

E. Printed, Stamped and Painted Textiles

- 1. General Works

- 2. Specific Types

-- a. Ikats

-- b. Other ......

F. Passementries, Borders, Braids, Ribbons, Trimmings

- 2. By Specific Type

-- a. Borders

-- b. Braiding

-- c. Sashes and Belts

-- d. Other ....

G. Embroidery

- 1. General Works

-- a. Samplers

-- b. The Bayeux "Tapestry"

-- c. Liturgical Embroidery

--- aa. Catholic and Greek Orthodox

--- bb. Buddhist

--- cc. Jewish

--- dd. Other ....

-- e. Bookbindings

-- f. Other (Banners, Hair, etc)

H. Lace

- 1. General Works

- 2. Specific Types of Lace

-- a. Needle lace

-- b. Bobbin lace

-- c. Macramé

-- d. Other ....

J. Carpets and Rugs

- 2. Islamic and Oriental

-- a. General Works

-- b. Specific Types

--- 1. The Prayer Rug

- 3. Non-Oriental Rugs (Europe, North America, Etc)

-- a. General Works

-- b. Specific Types

--- aa. Knotted Pile

--- bb. Needlepoint

--- cc. Hooked Rugs

--- dd. Table Rugs

--- ee. Bed Ruggs

--- ff. Ryijy Rugs

--- gg. Other ...

K. Kilims and Flatwoven Textiles

- 1. General Works on All Types and Regions

- 2. Islamic and Oriental

- 3. Non-Oriental

L. Tapestry-Woven Textiles

- 1. General Works on All Types and Regions

-- a. General Works

-- b. By Workshop and Country

--- aa. Gobelins

--- bb. Other manufactures ....

- 3. Other Types of Tapestry-Woven Textiles

-- a. See: Coptic Textiles

-- b. See: Ko'sou Chinese

M. Knitting, Hosiery and Netting

- 1. General Works

N. Tablet Weaving

O. Sprang

P. Quilts and Appliqué

Q. Bark Cloth, Tapa, ….

VIII. PATTERN BOOKS FOR LACE, EMBROIDERY AND WEAVING

A. General Works and Bibliographies

B. Early Lace and Embroidery Pattern Books (16th - 18th Century; Including Reprints)

C. Early Weaving Pattern Books (17th - Early 19th Century; Including Reprints)

D. Modern "How-To" Lace, Embroidery and Sewing Books (19th - 20th Century)

E. Modern "How-to" Weaving Books (19th - 20th Century)

IX. CLOTHING AND COSTUME

A. General Works and Bibliographies

B. Early Costume Books (16th - 18th Century)

C. Specific Types of Clothing

- 1. Liturgical Vestments

-- a. Western Catholic Church

-- b. Greek Orthodox Church

-- c. Buddhist and Other Asian

-- d. Jewish

2. Women's Clothes

3. Men's Clothes

4. Other ....

D. Clothing Accessories

X. TEXTILE-RELATED CRAFTS

A. Basketry, Raphia and Mats

B. Wallpaper

C. Leather and Fur

D. Rope Making

E. Beadwork, Feather Work and Quillwork

F. Tents

G. Other ....

XI. BIOGRAPHIES [ALPHABETICAL BY SUBJECT OF BIOGRAPHY]

 

2. BOOKS CLASSIFIED BY COUNTRY / REGION

 

North Africa (Mediterranean Region)

Sub-saharan Africa

 

ASIA

Western Asia (= Middle East)

Northwest Asia (Caucasus, Russia, Etc)

Central Asia

Eastern Asia

Southeast Asia

THE PACIFIC REGION

Australia, New Zealand, and the Pacific islands

EUROPE

Great Britain (England, Wales & Scotland); Ireland

Scandinavian Countries

Benelux Countries

Central Europe

Southern Europe (Mediterranean Region)

Balkan-Adriatic Region

NORTH AMERICA

Canada, USA and Mexico

 

CENTRAL AMERICA & SOUTH AMERICA
 

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